未鑑定ポケモンカードのコンディション
プロフェッショナル鑑定にカードを送る前に、未鑑定カードのコンディションを理解することが重要です。
The raw card market thrives on trust—buyers and sellers agreeing on condition without the authority of a third-party grade.
What Raw Means for Collectors vs Players
A raw card is simply an ungraded card—no slab, no label, no third-party verification. For players, raw cards are the norm. You can't sleeve a graded card into your deck. The Pokemon TCG competitive scene runs entirely on raw cards, where playability trumps collectibility.
For collectors, raw cards occupy a different space. They're either awaiting grading, deemed not worth grading, or intentionally kept raw for display flexibility. Many vintage collectors prefer raw cards in binders, arguing that slabs remove the tactile connection to the hobby. The decision to grade often comes down to value thresholds and personal preference.
Understanding condition matters regardless of your perspective. Players need playable cards without marked backs that could be considered cheating. Collectors need accurate condition assessments for pricing and potential grading. Both groups benefit from speaking the same condition language.
コンディション概要
未鑑定カードのコンディションは、TCGPlayerやCardMarketなどのマーケットプレイスで使用される標準スケールに従います。
ニアミント（NM）
90-100%ニアミントカードはパックから出たばかりのように見えます。
- —コーナーがシャープ
- —エッジがクリーン
- —サーフェスに傷なし
- —曲がりや折れなし
NMはオンラインで販売されるシングルの標準コンディションです。
The line between NM and LP is often debated. Some sellers are strict, reserving NM only for pack-fresh cards. Others include light handling that doesn't affect playability. When in doubt, condition your cards conservatively—an LP card listed as LP will satisfy buyers, while an NM listing that arrives as LP creates disputes.
ライトリープレイド（LP）
70-90%ライトリープレイドカードは取り扱いによる軽微な摩耗が見られます。
- —わずかなコーナー摩耗
- —軽いサーフェスの傷
- —軽微な印刷不良
- —折れなし
LPカードはNMよりも大幅に安いことが多いです。
Many grading candidates come from the LP tier. A card that's LP due to centering might still grade PSA 9 or higher. LP due to surface scratching likely won't. Learning to identify why a card is LP helps predict grading outcomes.
モデレートリープレイド（MP）
40-70%モデレートリープレイドカードは明らかな摩耗が見られます。
- —顕著なコーナーの丸み
- —目に見えるエッジ摩耗
- —サーフェスの傷
- —軽微な折れの可能性
MPカードは予算コレクションに適しています。
MP cards rarely make sense for grading unless extremely valuable. The wear that qualifies a card as MP typically results in grades of PSA 5-7, which often sell for less than raw NM copies. However, vintage cards where even damaged copies hold value can be exceptions.
ヘビリープレイド（HP）
20-40%ヘビリープレイドカードは大きな摩耗があります。
- —重いコーナー摩耗
- —大きなエッジの白化
- —複数の傷
- —折れあり
HPカードは主にプレイ用または予算セット用です。
HP cards have legitimate uses. Competitive players might use HP copies of expensive staples in testing or casual play. Collectors might accept HP for cards worth hundreds in NM—a HP 1st Edition Charizard still displays the artwork and holds significant value.
ダメージ（DMG）
5-20%ダメージカードには重大な問題があります。
- —大きな折れ
- —破れや穴
- —水濡れダメージ
- —重い染み
ダメージカードはレア/ヴィンテージカードのみ価値を維持します。
Some damaged cards can't be sold on major platforms—cards with writing or applied stickers may violate listing policies. Always photograph damage extensively when selling damaged cards to avoid disputes.
US vs EU Grading Scales
The European market, centered on CardMarket, uses a different condition scale than TCGPlayer's US standard. Understanding both systems is crucial for international buyers and arbitrage traders.
US Scale (TCGPlayer)
US Scale (TCGPlayer): Near Mint (NM), Lightly Played (LP), Moderately Played (MP), Heavily Played (HP), Damaged (DMG)
EU Scale (CardMarket)
EU Scale (CardMarket): Mint (M), Near Mint (NM), Excellent (EX), Good (GD), Light Played (LP), Played (PL), Poor (PO)
Key differences: EU 'Mint' is stricter than US 'Near Mint'—M on CardMarket expects pack-fresh perfection. EU 'Near Mint' roughly equals US 'Near Mint'. EU 'Excellent' sits between US 'NM' and 'LP'. EU 'Good' roughly equals US 'LP'. EU 'Light Played' and 'Played' map roughly to US 'MP' and 'HP'.
DIY Condition Assessment Guide
Learning to assess your own cards saves time and money. Here's a systematic approach to evaluating condition.
Lighting Setup
Use bright, diffused lighting. Direct light creates glare on holographic surfaces. A desk lamp with daylight bulbs works well. Examine cards at multiple angles to catch surface issues.
Corner Inspection
Hold the card at eye level and examine each corner individually. Look for whitening, softness, or rounding. Even minor wear is visible when you know what to look for. Use a loupe or magnifying glass for close inspection.
Edge Examination
Run your eye along each edge slowly. Look for nicks, chips, or whitening where the card's core shows through. Pay special attention to corners where edges meet.
Surface Analysis
Tilt the card under light to catch scratches. Holographic cards reveal surface issues when angled. Check both front and back. Look for print lines, ink spots, and dents.
Centering Check
Compare border widths on opposite sides. Significant centering issues are immediately apparent. Use a centering tool or ruler for precise measurement if needed.
Storage Tips to Maintain Condition
Proper storage prevents condition degradation. These practices protect your investment.
- —Always use penny sleeves for individual cards—they prevent surface scratching and edge wear
- —Store valuable cards in toploaders or card savers within penny sleeves
- —Avoid rubber bands—they cause indentation and damage over time
- —Keep cards away from humidity, direct sunlight, and temperature extremes
- —Store horizontally when possible to prevent warping
- —Use binders with side-loading pages to prevent cards from falling out
- —Handle cards by edges only—fingerprints affect surface condition
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